A project car is essentially a car that’s not in the best working order or one that you’re constantly working on, either out of necessity or passion.
It could be anything: an old beater with a welded diff, a restomod, or a dedicated track machine that you’re slowly perfecting to shave seconds off your lap times.
Does it stop being a project car when it’s in the final form? Not always—owners typically tinker with these endlessly, so they never really lose their “project car” status.
Whatever your definition of a project car is, starting out with one that’s right for you is incredibly important. Buying a new car for this purpose doesn’t always make sense, and there are heaps of great options on the used market.
Some are more complex than others, while others are as easy to work on as a Lego set. So what are some of the best project cars you can buy? Where do you even start?
In this article, we’ve picked the absolute best project cars for beginner enthusiasts, with all the basic criteria covered: affordability, ease of use, easy to find, and plenty of aftermarket support.
Things to Look for In a Beginner Project Car
If this is going to be your first car (that you intend to work on all by yourself), there’s no point in starting out with something complicated.
We’re assuming that, as a beginner, you probably don’t want to bother with pulling your engine for simple tasks like replacing one of your drive belts.
A beginner project should be cheap, easy to maintain, and have plenty of aftermarket support so you can troubleshoot and avoid relying on a garage all the time.
We compiled a list of what we believe are fun project cars, most of which you are likely familiar with, as well as some that might not have crossed your mind.
Honda Civic (5th Generation)
Production years: 1991-1995
Domestic market: JDM
Engine: Various D-series and B-series
Power output: 70 to 125 hp
Torque specs: 83 to 106 lb-ft
Drivetrain: FWD
Curb weight: 2,039 to 2,491 lbs
It’s against the law to talk about beginner project cars without mentioning everyone’s favorite disturber of late-night peace, the Honda Civic. We’ve gone for the EG generation, due to its immense popularity, affordable pricing, and ease of finding one.
The EG Civic trim level started out for model year 1992, and it could be bought as a coupe, a hatch, or a sedan.
Power came from Honda’s proven lineup of D-series and B-series 4-cylinder engines, which, while not exactly famous for their oodles of torque, they are well-known for being pretty tunable and taking a beating, both in terms of upgrades and durability.
If that doesn’t float your boat, you can always swap in a K20. This is a Honda after all, and it’s been done numerous times before. While finding an EG Civic is very easy and you can find one for basically no money, try to avoid the cheapest Craigslist specials.
EG Civics tend to rust in places like the rear wheel wells, and we all know that cheap Craigslist Civics can be incredibly problematic. Try to find a better-kept EG Civic if you can—ideally, a middle ground between a Craigslist jalopy and a Bring a Trailer flipper that doesn’t accept low-balling.
If you manage to secure a Civic like that, you can absolutely go to town on it. Plenty of aftermarket support for just about every aspect, and the parts aren’t as expensive as you might think. It’s also fairly easy to work on, so if you have the knowledge, you can do a lot of the work by yourself.
Mazda Miata (NA)
Production years: 1989-1997
Domestic market: JDM
Engine: 1.6L B6ZE I4 or 1.8L BP-ZE I4
Power output: 114 to 133 hp
Torque specs: 100 to 114 lb-ft
Drivetrain: RWD
Curb weight: 2,210 lbs
Much like the Civic, you’re breaking at least 17 rules of the car enthusiast code if you don’t mention the Miata as a fantastic beginner project car. All of the familiar Miata jokes aside, there are actually several reasons you might want to pick up one of these as a project car.
Firstly, the NA Miata has plentiful aftermarket support for just about every component you may need. From engine upgrades all the way to bespoke digital gauges designed specifically for it, you won’t exactly be struggling for aftermarket parts.
Due to how common it is, and the small fact that it’s the all-time best-selling roadster, if you need to do a repair, stock parts are also pretty easy to find. Of course, the Miata is a borderline classic car, which means finding a cheap one is getting more difficult.
However, due to how popular it is, you can find one easier than you might think. All you need is a Miata in good condition with little to no rust, and you’ll be good to go. Don’t worry too much about mileage, if the engine has been regularly serviced, it’ll run pretty much forever.
There are also some excellent Miata engine swap options if you decide to go that route. A common one is the Jaguar V6, but you could also do the popular LS swap, and even a rotary, if you want to make your super reliable roadster significantly less reliable.
Chevrolet Camaro (4th Gen)
Production years: 1993-2002
Domestic market: USDM
Engine: 3.4L or 3.8L V6 (L32/L36) / 5.7L V8 (LT1/LT4/LS1)
Power output: 160 to 330 hp
Torque specs: 200 to 350 lb-ft
Drivetrain: RWD
Curb weight: 2,954 to 3,211 lbs
If Japanese cars aren’t your cup of tea, maybe you’re considering something American for your next project build. The 4th generation Chevy Camaro, also known as the catfish generation due to its resemblance to the aquatic creature, is definitely a great place to start.
Sold from 1993 to 2002, the 4th gen Camaro may not have the muscle car pizazz of the cars that preceded or succeeded it, but it has everything else you need for the perfect project car.
Ignoring the V6 models, since they’re really not worth your time, you can very easily find a 4th gen Camaro with a V8 for next to nothing, even in half decent condition. The best option for a catfish Camaro would be anything after 1998.
That’s when Chevy replaced the LT V8 with the ubiquitous LS1 V8. If you’re into modified cars even a little bit, the LS1 V8 needs no introduction.
What’s more, there’s plenty of parts and aftermarket support, and due to GM’s famous parts sharing, you shouldn’t have a lot of trouble finding stock parts either. If you want your project car with a good dose of V8 rumble, this is a great option.
Lexus SC (Z30)
Production years: 1991-2000
Domestic market: JDM
Engine: 3.0L I6 (2JZ-GE) or 4.0L V8 (1UZ-FE)
Power output: 225 to 250 hp
Torque specs: 210 to 260 lb-ft
Drivetrain: RWD
Curb weight: 3,485 to 3,604 lbs
Like many enthusiasts out there, you’re also probably tired of Mk4 Supras being massively overpriced and going for six figures left, right, and center.
If you don’t want a second mortgage but need some of that Supra action in your life, there’s an excellent alternative.
Enter the 1st generation Lexus SC, the global version of Toyota’s luxury sports coupe, the Soarer. It might sound like blasphemy, and you might think it’s a consolation prize for those who can’t afford a Supra, but actually, not quite.
The 1st generation SC, known by the code Z30, shares most of its architecture with the A80 Toyota Supra. What’s more, for 1992, Lexus started offering the 2JZ on the SC with the SC 300 to supplement the V8-powered SC 400.
This is the same 2JZ-GE as the Supra, and it actually had more power in stock form. You could even get it with a manual transmission. Of course, it’s naturally aspirated, but you could easily add twin turbos or a single turbo if you so choose.
What’s more, the SC is more luxurious than the Supra, it’s more comfortable, and because it’s technically not a Supra, you can find a used SC for significantly less money, even in nice condition.
This also applies to the JDM Toyota Soarer, if you can find an imported one or if you don’t mind going through the importing process yourself.
Ford Mustang GT (S197)
Production years: 2004-2014
Domestic market: USDM
Engine: 4.6L V8 / 5.0L V8
Power output: 300 to 412 hp
Torque specs: 320 to 325 lb-ft
Drivetrain: RWD
Curb weight: 3,480 to 3,575 lbs
Back to American cars. If you don’t want to go General Motors for your project build, you should definitely take a look at the Ford Mustang. The possibilities here are endless, but we’ve opted for the S197 GT.
S197 was the chassis code applied to the 4th generation Mustang, sold from 2005 to 2014. Technically, this includes two generations of Mustang, the S197 and the S197-II. The latter refers to the major 2010 update.
In truth, there are tons of drivetrain combinations for the Mustang, but we’re going with the one a lot of people would consider the only true combination: the V8.
The 1st run of the 4th gen Mustangs used the 4.6-liter Modular V8, whereas in 2011, the 5.0-liter Coyote V8 took its place.
Both of these powertrains have their strengths and weaknesses. The Coyote revs a little higher and it’s a little more modern, whereas the 3V Modular is a more typical muscle car engine.
In any case, both of them have excellent tunability and can reach some surprisingly high horsepower and torque numbers.
The Mustang also has one of the most dedicated communities in the world of cars, as well as massive aftermarket support for just about any component you can think of.
You can find one for a very good price, and you don’t have to overspend to get a good one. Repairs are relatively easy and cheap, especially because Mustangs are so common.
Lexus IS300 (XE10)
Production years: 1999-2005
Domestic market: JDM
Engine: 3.0L I6 (2JZ-GE)
Power output: 217 hp
Torque specs: 218 lb-ft
Drivetrain: RWD
Curb weight: 3,255 to 3,410 lbs
Time for some more 2JZ action. You should know that the Supra is not the only way to get into the 2JZ and all of its many merits as a project car engine. Another Lexus has come in to save the day, and this time, it’s the much smaller IS300.
The 1st generation IS is a criminally underrated car in general, and especially as a project build. IS300 engine options in North America: the smaller 2.0-liter straight-6 and the 2JZ. Obviously you want the latter.
As is the case with any 2JZ, a twin-turbo mod is super straightforward, and it will handle pretty much everything you throw at it without ever breaking a sweat. While aftermarket support isn’t quite as commonplace, it’s still pretty easy to work on.
By the way, if you’re into fast wagons, this is a great choice. This was the only time Lexus flirted with wagons, specifically with the IS300 SportCross. These were only ever sold with automatic transmissions, which is an unfortunate oversight.
For those who are keen, IS300 manual swap is an option.
Chevrolet Corvette (C5)
Production years: 1996-2004
Domestic market: USDM
Engine: 5.7L V8
Power output: 345 to 405 hp
Torque specs: 356 to 400 lb-ft
Drivetrain: RWD
Curb weight: 3,172 to 3,247 lbs
What if the Camaro doesn’t really float your boat, but you still want something affordable with a factory LS motor under the hood?
The C5 Corvette has your back. The 5th generation of the Vette, sold from 1997 to 2004, is often cited when talking about the best bang-for-your-buck performance or project cars, and with good reason.
For one thing, it’s scary how affordable it is. Again, relative to everything that you get in the price, you can pick up a C5 Corvette for a great price.
In this case, it’s not that bad if you can’t find the Z06, because other than the Z06’s added power, both cars use the same 5.7-liter LS V8.
Again, the LS motor doesn’t need any introduction. One of the best and most reliable platforms for just about any sort of build you’re going for. Stock parts, aftermarket parts, and repairs are pretty inexpensive and easy to do as well.
Our advice would be to go with the manual transmission. There’s nothing wrong with the auto inherently, but a car like this works better with a manual.
The fact it’s the tried and true Tremec T-56 gives it extra reliability points. Whether it’s a show car, a drag car, a track car, or an OEM+ build, the C5 Corvette won’t let you down.
Subaru WRX (GD)
Production years: 2001-2007
Domestic market: JDM
Engine: 2.0L F4 (EJ20)
Power output: 227 hp
Torque specs: 217 lb-ft
Drivetrain: AWD
Curb weight: 3,085 lbs
If we’re talking about project cars for beginners, we gotta give Subaru some love too. The 2nd generation STI is getting increasingly difficult to find, especially unmodified, so we’ll stick with the regular WRX.
These are much more affordable, and they’re not that difficult to find. Just because this isn’t the full fat STI, however, don’t go thinking that it can’t handle some extra power.
While not as tunable as the EJ25, the EJ20 is still a pretty solid powertrain that can definitely handle some extra aftermarket parts.
Speaking of those, they are plentiful, although some of them may require a little extra work to install due to the car’s boxer layout.
Also remember, this is a Subaru, so it’s well-advised to look for the telltale signs of failing head gaskets, and replace them in good time to avoid serious problems.
Left-Field Project Car Choices
All of the cars so far have ranged from extremely popular to fairly popular for project car builds. For some enthusiasts, that won’t be quite enough. Some enthusiasts are after truly left-field cars that no one who’s looking for a project car would ever consider.
These next few cars fit that bill very well, but they also have more aftermarket support than you might expect. You will definitely stand out, but you won’t be stuck till the early hours of the morning looking for replacement parts on some foreign version of Ebay.
Honda Fit
Production years: 2001-2008
Domestic market: JDM
Engine: 1.5L I4 (L15A)
Power output: 109 hp
Torque specs: 105 lb-ft
Drivetrain: FWD
Curb weight: 2,161-2,425 lbs
This might seem like an odd choice, but it’s a better option than you might think. From 2001 to 2008, the Honda Fit replaced the Civic as Honda’s entry level hatchback in North America, until Honda started offering them both simultaneously.
At its core, the Fit is just a simple subcompact car designed to take you from point A to point B, and while the L-series four-cylinder engine is alright on its own, if you want your Fit project car to be properly fast, you’ll have to do an engine swap.
Amazingly, the legendary K20 fits under the hood of the… Fit, and you can swap it surprisingly easily due to cross compatibility with parts and electronics.
A K20 swapped Fit sounds like a hilarious idea, and such a car sounds like it would be a total hoot to drive.
Parts support, while not as plentiful as some of the other cars on here, is still pretty good, with a variety of parts offered by Honda’s partner Spoon Sports, as well as a few other brands.
What’s more, the Fit is a Honda, so it’ll be reliable and pretty easy to work on if needed. Finding one is pretty easy, and they’re very cheap.
Infiniti M35
Production years: 2004-2010
Domestic market: JDM
Engine: 3.5L V6 (VQ35)
Power output: 280 to 303 hp
Torque specs: 262 to 270 lb-ft
Drivetrain: RWD / 4WD
Curb weight: 3,832 lbs
A lot of enthusiasts swear by Nissan’s VQ family of V6 engines. Obviously, a well-known way to get into the VQ is with the 350Z, but Nissan has offered numerous alternatives over the years. One of them is the luxurious Infiniti M35.
This was Infiniti’s answer to the Mercedes E-Class and BMW 5 Series, becoming the brand’s flagship starting in 2006. Despite the Infiniti badging, the M35 was a thinly disguised version of of the JDM Nissan Fuga.
Under the hood of the M35 was the famous 3.5-liter VQ35DE V6 engine putting out 280 hp and 270 lb-ft of torque. Later versions got the VQ35HR with a little more power, although they lost a little torque.
The VQ is known for being a great tuning platform, as well as being one of the more reliable engines from Nissan.
You could even manual swap it, as the M35 sadly didn’t offer a manual transmission. M35s are generally pretty cheap, and they’re pretty easy to maintain and service if something goes awry.
Acura TSX
Production years: 2003-2014
Domestic market: USDM
Engine: 2.4L I4 (K24A2) / 3.5L V6 (J35Z6)
Power output: 200 to 280 hp
Torque specs: 262 to 270 lb-ft
Drivetrain: RWD / 4WD
Curb weight: 3,832 lbs
After the Acura Integra bit the dust for the North American market, Honda prepared something rather special to replace it. In 2003, Acura introduced the TSX, which was essentially a thinly disguised European/JDM Honda Accord, specifically from the 7th generation.
It came with the K24 as standard, along with a six-speed manual transmission, and it was overall tuned more for performance and handling instead of comfort. The 2nd generation brought a wagon body style and something the aforementioned markets never got: V6 power.
The TSX has recently started getting the appreciation from enthusiasts that it deserves, and it’s easy to see why it would make a great project build. Reliability, maintenance, and even aftermarket support are all pretty on point, and you can find one for a great price on the used market.
Concluding Summary
The sky’s the limit when you’re choosing a project car. Different price ranges, tunability, reliability, brand, maintenance, everything comes into play. As a result, it can be a little daunting when you’re treading the classifieds for your next project car.
These options should get you on the right track in terms of some great options, and what to look for specifically when you’re shopping.
In the end, it boils down to your preference, but these are some of the best options if you’re a beginner looking to get into a project car.
Which one would you pick? Let us know by leaving a comment below!